Install a Garden Fence

Do this before you order materials.

Property boundary: agree with your neighbours where the boundary lies (unsure? Kadaster.nl shows the plot line). If you place the fence exactly on the boundary, it counts as a shared fence and you need your neighbour's consent. To avoid that discussion: set the fence 5 cm inside your own land.

Permits: up to 2 metres high in the back garden is usually permit-free. At the front or along public space, often a maximum of 1 metre applies. Exceptions apply for listed buildings, protected townscapes and some homeowners' association or leasehold rules. Always check the Omgevingsloket portal (omgevingswet.overheid.nl) or call your municipality — two minutes on the phone is cheaper than having to take it down.

Cables and pipes: never dig blind. Submit a free KLIC notification via the Kadaster (or ask us to help) and use a cable detector if in doubt. Hit a gas pipe or fibre optic line and the costs are yours.

Ground conditions: sand and clay are fine. With lots of rubble, tree stumps or a high water table: let us take a look and we'll adjust the foundation accordingly.

Timber garden panels: warm and natural, lifespan 10–20 years (pressure-treated), treat every 2–3 years, light to medium budget, full privacy.

Concrete fencing: clean and industrial, 30+ years, virtually no maintenance, heavy (two people needed), higher purchase cost but low over the years, full privacy.

Natural mats (willow, reed, heather): green and informal, 3–8 years, replace rather than repair, very light and low budget, privacy depends on density. Not wind-stable in exposed locations — always mount on a sturdy frame.

What to look for: for timber, choose sustainably sourced or pressure-treated spruce or Douglas fir with KOMO or FSC certification. Untreated spruce rots within a few years at ground level. Concrete baseboards 180 cm long weigh 40–80 kg; plan for a second person or a stone clamp. Very common: a timber panel between concrete posts with a concrete gravel board at the bottom — the wood never touches the soil and lasts years longer — for most gardens the best value choice.

Shopping list per post (concrete in the hole): 1 post (length = fence height + 60–80 cm), ± 25 kg quick-set concrete or stabilising mix, gravel for the base layer (± 10 cm).

Tools: spade or post-hole auger (Ø 20–25 cm), wheelbarrow, bucket, tape measure, spirit level (60 cm and long), builder's line, plumb bob, rubber mallet, cordless drill, hand saw or circular saw, work gloves, safety glasses.

Not sure? Send us the length, the location (exposed or sheltered) and a photo — we'll calculate the materials for you.

Working direction: always start on the left (or at the fixed corner side, for example against a wall) and work in one direction. That way all dimensional deviation collects on one side, where you can deal with it.

Gravel board first: if you use a concrete gravel board, place it first between the posts. Set it level on a thin bed of sand or gravel — the gravel board sets the height of all panels above it.

With grooved concrete posts: drop the panel into the groove from above. Two people, slide it down gently, do not force it. Binding? Trim slightly along the side of the panel; never hammer it in.

With flat posts and U-channels or clips: screw the stainless panel clips or U-channels to the post — two per side, roughly at 1/4 and 3/4 of the height. Place the panel between them, check with a spirit level that the top is straight, and screw tight with stainless or galvanised screws. Ordinary steel screws rust and leave black marks on your timber.

Height above ground: keep the timber at least 5 cm clear of the soil (without a gravel board). Direct contact with damp soil is the main cause of rot. Allow 5–10 mm clearance at the sides; never clamp a panel tight — timber expands and contracts.

Finishing: fit post caps on the posts against rainwater ingress. Cut timber to size? Treat the cut face with end-grain sealer or touch-up paint — the pressure-treated layer is no longer there. Hang the gate last so you can adjust for the clearance of the rest.

Final check: walk the full length and sight along the top — one straight line? Push firmly against each panel halfway along. Does a post move? Then the foundation is too small or not yet cured. Check that all screws are tightened and nothing protrudes at child height. Clear up concrete and sawdust; they stain paving.

Timber maintenance: first treatment after 3–6 months (the timber needs to dry first), then every 2–3 years. Check the ground line annually for soft spots. Concrete: remove green algae with a soft brush and water — no pressure washer on full power. Mats: check the fixings to the frame annually. Climbing plants: attractive, but keep them away from the tops of timber posts; they hold moisture.

The five mistakes we see most often: holes too shallow (under 60 cm and your fence leans in the first autumn storm), working without a string line, filling all posts with concrete at once, wrong (non-stainless) screws, and timber against the ground without a gravel board or air gap.

Need help? Send us the length of your fence line, a photo of the situation and your material preference. We'll send back a complete materials list with a quote — and if you'd rather not DIY, we can install it for you.