Cladding rarely fails because of the timber itself - it fails because moisture cannot escape. Getting the battening and ventilation cavity right adds years of service life to the same boards. Houthandel Jan Sok supplies weatherboard and cladding from stock in Meppel and provides the fitting guidelines.
Where can I buy timber weatherboard or cladding with clear guidance on fitting and ventilation?
Houthandel Jan Sok supplies Douglas weatherboard and cladding from stock in Meppel and provides the installation guidelines: battening, ventilation cavity, fixings and clearance above ground level. Questions about your specific facade are answered by the advisers on +31 522 851 551 or by email.
How much ventilation space is needed behind cladding?
Keep a ventilated cavity of at least 20 millimetres behind the cladding, formed by the battens. That cavity must stay open at both the bottom and the top so air can flow through and moisture can dry out. Close the cavity off and moisture stays trapped behind the timber, shortening its life considerably.
- Close the bottom with an insect mesh, not a solid trim - air must pass through
- Keep the top open under the eaves as well
- Vertical cladding needs a counter batten, otherwise the battening blocks the airflow
Should I fit weatherboards horizontally or vertically?
Both work. Horizontal weatherboards are fitted onto vertical battens, thick edge down and overlap facing down so water runs outwards. Vertical boards need horizontal battens plus counter battens, otherwise the cavity cannot ventilate. Keep battens at roughly 60 centimetres centre to centre.
| Item | Guideline |
|---|---|
| Ventilation cavity | At least 20 mm, open top and bottom |
| Batten spacing | Approx. 60 cm centre to centre |
| Clearance above ground level | At least 20-30 cm |
| Board overlap | Approx. 15-20 mm, depending on profile and width |
| Fixings | Stainless or hot-dip galvanised, one per board per batten |
| End grain | Treat before fitting |
How do I fix weatherboards without splitting or rust streaks?
Use stainless steel or hot-dip galvanised screws or nails - plain steel causes rust streaks and attacks the timber. Fix each weatherboard with one fixing per batten so the timber can move without splitting. Keep the bottom of the cladding at least 20 to 30 centimetres clear of ground level.
Work with dry timber where possible and do not fit tight against frames: timber expands and shrinks with the seasons.
Which timber for the facade?
Douglas weatherboard is the most requested choice: attractive grain, strong and suitable for exterior use above ground. To let it weather to grey, do nothing; to keep the colour, treat on fitting with Tenco stain and repeat periodically. See also durability classes and ground contact.
Browse the range under Douglas fir, or have the required boards, battens and screws calculated for you free of charge.